Plumbing Tips and repairs

What to do if you need repairs:

ENERSOL Solar Panels are Canada’s largest and longest running manufacturer of solar pool heaters. Family owned and operated, ENERSOL offers an 18 year extended limited warranty on the Solarprene panels. The synthetic rubber Solarprene (a form of EPDM) makes them the longest lasting, most durable, weather resistant solar panels available. The modular design makes it easy to install and easy to repair should it be necessary.

Follow the question – answer format below to determine what to do should you spring a leak. If you are unfamiliar with our part names, visit the ENERSOL parts section of the website.

Is the leak between the headers, and/or the clip has popped off?

Yes: go to A

No: go to 2.

A. If the leak is between the headers, the O ring may be pinched, or needs to be replaced, or the clip has popped off .

Cause: improper lube used, install tool not used, headers are not properly secured on the roof, pressure is too high.

Repair: replace the O ring (see instruction sheet A ) check the system pressure and replace the clip.

Is the leak on the header?

Yes: go to B

No: go to 3.

B. If the leak is because of a crack in the header or a cracked nipple, the header needs to be replaced.

Cause: The header may have been damaged during shipping, during the winter due to ice forming in the header, during high winds during a storm, or may have been stepped on during installation. The panels can be walked on, but not the headers. Avoid driving over the headers with your car, before installation, when they are spread on your driveway.

Repair: replace the header (see instruction sheet B)

Is the leak on the rubber?

Yes: go to C

No: go to 4.

C. If the leak is because of a hole (large or small) in the rubber panel, it can be repaired.

Cause: The panel may have been damaged from a storm (hail), a nail or sharp object on the roof, or an animal chewing on the rubber. It is possible to cut the panels with a sharp knife when opening the boxes

Repair: repair or replace the panel (see instruction sheet C) spray panels with animal repellant, available in most garden centers.

Is the leak at the end of the system where to header joins the plumbing, or the end cap?

Yes: go to D

D. If the leak is where the PVC plumbing joins the header, or where the end cap is attached to the header, the leak can be repaired.

Cause: The wrong cement was used, or not enough was applied. The end cap was over tightened.

Repair: If the leak is in the end cap, it may need the washer replaced, or may need some Teflon tape applied to the threaded end. Use heavy-bodied PVC solvent cement when joining PVC to ASA header (see plumbing repair D.)

A. O Ring Replacement

Materials required: new O ring, lube, install tool,

Disconnect the headers: remove the black clip, install the orange clip tool and pull the headers apart.

Remove the O ring and replace with a new one

Lubricate the new O ring, using a lithium based lubricant, or vegetable oil.

Push the clip tool into the header clip slot and reconnect the headers.

Remove the installation tool and insert the black clip.

*Check the pressure in the system. Recommended operating pressure is 15 psi, with a maximum fluid pressure of 20 psi.

*There are enough straps included with your system to attach every other header. If your system is on a very steep slope, every header should be supported with 12" header straps.

B. Header Replacement

Materials required: Install tool, flat head screwdriver, bucket with warm soapy water, replacement header

Disconnect the headers: remove the black clip, install the orange clip tool and pull the headers apart.

Remove the panels by gently prying the rubber off the header using a flat head screwdriver ( This is easiest if you pry off in the channels of the rubber)

Re-attach the rubber by dipping the ends into warm soapy water and pushing onto the header.
Reconnect the headers by lubricating the O ring, and lining up the indicator tab and slot and push together

( When connecting different versions of the headers, cut off the indicator tab)

Push the clip tool into the header clip slot and reconnect the headers.

Remove the installation tool and insert the black clip.

C. Panel Repair

* For small holes - materials required: sharp knife, splicer (available in repair kit)

Make a small cut in the channel of the panel on each side of the hole

Smooth off the ends of the splicer and insert into the open end of the tube.

(use needle nosed pliers to stretch the opening of the tube)

Insert the other end of the splicer into the other opening of the tube.

*For larger holes - materials required: sharp knife, 2 splicers, rubber patch (available in repair kit)

Make a splicer to fit the damaged area by cutting out a tube from a rubber patch in the proper length.

Insert splicers into each end

Remove the damaged tube from the panel and insert the splicers

*For damaged sections- materials required: sharp knife, 12 splicers, rubber patch (available in repair kit)

Make an appropriate sized patch to cover a large section of rubber by inserting splicers in the rubber patch and fitting into place in the panel.

*Spray the panels with an animal repellent to prevent further damage.

If the section of rubber is too badly damaged, whole sections (available by foot length) can be ordered.

D. Plumbing Repair

If the joint between the header and the PVC plumbing is leaking, turn off the system and when a vaccuum is formed, apply the proper cement to the joint and the glue will go into the joint, sealing the leak.

If this repair does not work, the header will have to be replaced (See B) and a new piece of PVC attached.

Use the correct cement (heavy-bodied PVC cement) for a leak proof seal

If the end cap is leaking, check the seal on the end cap, it may need to be replaced.

If the threaded end of the end cap is leaking, apply some teflon tape and retighten.

If the joint between the header and the end cap is leaking and neither of the above methods solve the problem, the header and end cap will have to be replaced. (See B). Be sure that when the glue is applied, the threaded end of the end cap is not glued.

Plumbing Tips

The ENERSOL Header End Connector (HEC) can be clipped to the headers as a spacer around roof obstacles, or to allow for easy removal of the panels from the plumbing.

The male end of the header is clipped to the female end of the HEC, or conversley, the female end of the header is clipped to the male end of the HEC. The plumbing is then glued to the HEC. This allows the system to be expanded and allows more flexibility during the install

To attach an end cap to the male end of the header, break off the indicator tab, apply cement and join.

To attach an end cap to the female end of the header, cement the 1 1/2" PVC to the header ( or the HEC) and cement the end cap to the PVC

end cap glued to PVC